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How to Photograph the Milky Way: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide

Milky Way photography tips—clear night sky with dense stars and glowing galaxy core

Photographing the Milky Way is one of the most exciting and rewarding challenges in outdoor and night sky photography. While the results can be stunning, capturing crisp images of our galaxy requires special preparation, technique, and a basic understanding of both your camera and the night sky. Whether you’re aiming for your first star-filled landscape or want to level up your astrophotography, this step-by-step guide will walk you through every stage of the process—from planning and camera settings to fieldwork and basic editing.

Essential Gear for Milky Way Photography

Before you head out, gather the right equipment for shooting in the dark:

  • Headlamp or flashlight: Navigating safely at night is essential, and a red light option can help preserve your night vision.
  • Sturdy tripod: Absolutely necessary for the long exposures needed to capture faint starlight without blurring.
  • Camera: Any camera with manual controls and interchangeable lenses will work, but a full-frame sensor is ideal for its low-light capability.
  • Wide, fast lens: A lens of 24mm or wider, with an aperture of f/2.8 or faster, lets in more light and enables longer exposures without star trails. A manual focus lens like the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 is an excellent budget-friendly choice.

Planning: When and Where to Shoot

Photographing the Milky Way is all about timing and location:

  • No Moon: Aim to shoot during the new moon or when the moon has set, as any moonlight can wash out the details of the Milky Way.
  • Milky Way Season: The core is visible from spring to fall, peaking during summer months.
  • Clear, dark sky: Light pollution is your biggest enemy. Use resources like lightpollutionmap.info to find dark sky areas. Even small sources of artificial light nearby can ruin a shot.
  • PhotoPills app: Tools like PhotoPills help you plan by predicting Milky Way position, moon phase, and optimal shooting times.
  • Find an interesting subject: The best Milky Way images usually include a compelling foreground—think old barns, lone trees, winding paths, or still water for reflections. Scout locations during daylight so you know where to set up in the dark.

Camera Settings and Setup

Start by configuring your camera before stepping outside:

  • LCD brightness: Turn down your rear LCD brightness so you don’t accidentally underexpose your shots.
  • Manual white balance: Set it to around 3800K for consistency—especially helpful if you’ll blend multiple exposures.
  • Shutter release or timer: Prevent camera shake by using a remote trigger or the built-in timer (set to 2 seconds).

Once in the field, use these basic settings as a starting point:

  • RAW format: Always shoot RAW for maximum editing flexibility.
  • Aperture: Open your lens as wide as possible (lowest f-number).
  • ISO: For full-frame cameras, start at ISO 3200–6400; for crop sensors, try ISO 1600–3200.
  • Exposure length: To avoid star trails, use the “500 Rule” for full-frame (500 ÷ focal length = max seconds); for crop sensors, use the “300 Rule” (300 ÷ focal length). For example, with a 20mm lens on full frame, use up to 25 seconds. On high-res cameras, shorter exposures (15–20 seconds) yield sharper stars.

Achieving Perfect Focus at Night

Focusing at infinity in the dark is one of the biggest hurdles in astrophotography:

  • Daytime method: Focus on a distant object in daylight, note or mark your lens’ true infinity point, and switch to manual focus.
  • Night method: Point your camera at a bright star or distant light, use the camera’s magnify function on the LCD, and carefully adjust the focus ring until the star is as sharp and small as possible. Lock manual focus, and don’t bump the focus ring!

Composing and Testing Your Shot

  • Level your camera: Use the built-in electronic level to make sure your horizon is straight.
  • Test exposures: Take a test shot, check your composition, and make sure the Milky Way is placed where you want it relative to your foreground. Adjust as needed—remember, your foreground will usually appear very dark at first.

Processing Your Milky Way Photos

The magic often happens in post-processing, where you can reveal the full beauty of the night sky:

  • Edit sky and land separately: The foreground and sky need different adjustments due to varying exposures.
  • Boost shadows and exposure in the foreground: Carefully lift details without making things look unnatural.
  • Enhance contrast and clarity in the sky: Increase contrast and a touch of clarity to make the Milky Way stand out—don’t overdo it to avoid a harsh, “crunchy” look.
  • Adjust color temperature: Cooler tones can emphasize the blue night sky.
  • Use dehaze: Helps cut through any remaining light pollution and pop the Milky Way out of the background.
  • Selective adjustments: Use radial or linear gradients to enhance the core or brighten the land.
  • Vignette: A subtle vignette draws the eye to the center of the image.
  • Final touches: Balance highlights, whites, and blacks for a natural, dramatic finish.

If your foreground or subject is much brighter than the sky—or if you want to blend multiple exposures for a more balanced result—check out our guide to HDR photography for beginners.

Get Started—Don’t Wait for “Perfect”

Milky Way photography is both science and art. While gear and technical settings matter, creativity and persistence are just as important. Even if your first attempts aren’t perfect, each outing will sharpen your skills and yield new ideas for next time. With some planning, patience, and the right settings, you’ll be well on your way to capturing the Milky Way in all its glory. So gather your gear, check the moon phase, and get out under the stars—you might be surprised at what you create!

Special Thanks:
This guide is based on the expertise of Simon d’Entremont, a renowned Canadian landscape and night sky photographer known for his clear and inspiring tutorials. While this article covers the basics, it doesn’t do the technique full justice—be sure to watch Simon’s original video below to see his process in action and gain deeper insight from a true master of Milky Way photography. Thank you, Simon, for making these techniques accessible to all.

Frequently Asked Questions


What camera and lens are best for Milky Way photography?
A camera with manual controls (preferably full-frame) and a wide, fast lens (like 14mm–24mm, f/2.8 or faster) works best. A sturdy tripod is also essential.
How do I find the best location and time to shoot the Milky Way?
Choose a dark sky area away from light pollution and shoot during the new moon. Tools like PhotoPills or online light pollution maps can help you plan, and Milky Way season runs from spring to fall.
What camera settings should I use for the Milky Way?
Shoot in RAW at your lens’s widest aperture. Use a high ISO (3200–6400 for full-frame; 1600–3200 for crop sensor) and calculate exposure time with the 500 Rule (full-frame) or 300 Rule (crop sensor) to avoid star trails.
How do I focus at night for sharp stars?
Pre-focus on a distant object during the day or manually focus on a bright star at night using your camera’s magnify function. Always switch to manual focus.
How should I process Milky Way photos?
Edit sky and land separately. Use tools like dehaze, contrast, and selective adjustments in Lightroom or Photoshop. Avoid over-processing to keep a natural look.

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